Extreme this, extreme that.
I am getting on my soap box here. Sometimes I think things are all about “more extreme”. It used to be 33′s were big and a limited slip was true off-road. Now unless you have at least 37′s, custom suspension, locked Dana 60′s, and no regard for carnage it seems that you are inadequate. I look at my CJ at recent trail runs and I am the little guy. Now I am all for new and cool stuff, also, I am not “stuck-in-my-ways” or necessarily “old-school”.
To me Jeeping is about the challenge of getting your Jeep to go over or through obstacles on the trail. If you have a Jeep with 33′s and a limited slip you are obviously not going to be able to do what those moon buggy looking rigs can do. Here’s the question, who cares? I believe that pushing the limits with any vehicle regardless of it’s equipment is what makes Jeeping fun.
Taking a relatively stock Jeep, putting a mild lift, bigger tires (33-35), and and maybe a rear locker makes a well equipped Jeep for weekend Jeeping and can still be a daily driver without spending a fortune. If you get stuck on the trail with this kind of Jeep it doesn’t mean it’s under done, it means you are having fun. (I didn’t mean to rhyme there) Getting stuck either means you pushed your Jeep’s limits or you need more trail technique practice. I have watched guys with Jeeps with 32′s (left-hey Chris-maybe you remember what happened next?) do things that others with bigger and more can’t because of style and finesse. It’s a fine line and some of us just get it.
It’s an interesting evolution this need for extreme. You start out with a stock Jeep and wheel it. You decide on some upgrades and you wheel it. You realize old stuff is now easy and you try harder stuff but soon learn your Jeep’s limits so you upgrade again. Now the new old stuff is easy and you try even harder and you soon learn your Jeep’s new limits not to mention a probable experience with the Just Empty Ever Pocket (J.E.E.P) syndrome. So the cycle continues.
It seems that like everything else in this country, unless it’s extreme it’s boring. Get a Jeep do something to it and use it. There’s lots of stuff out there for the weekend warriors.
Towing and weight ratings
We get quite a few questions on this, in some ways a lot of ratings do not make any sense and cause a bit of confusion and debate about the Jeep crowd. In many ways I am mystified by some of the ratings too, especially when it comes to the new JK. The rated towing capacity of a 2 door and 4 door JK is 3500lbs, a Liberty is 5000lbs. I can see the JK rating on a 2 door but a 4 door too? The 4 door is longer and wider than the Liberty, hmm. I really like the image in the official Jeep brochure that shows a JK pulling a trailer with a CJ-5 on it, that seems 
close to exceeding the limit to me. A CJ-5 typically weighs in at 3000+lbs and a dual axle car trailer usually weighs in at 1500 lbs. Doesn’t that add to 4500lbs? I realize there are ultra-lightweight trailers out there but the one pictured doesn’t look like one.
Maybe a clarification on some common weight rating terminology.
GVWR - Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. This is the total maximum weight of the vehicle including passengers and cargo.
GCWR - Gross Combined Weight Rating. This is the total weight of the towing vehicle and what’s being towed.
In most states exceeding either of the above (and getting caught) can result in a citation of some kind. I have also heard stories of individuals getting into accidents and being denied a claim by insurance due to exceeding the above.
The towing situation above is probably best left to a more qualified vehicle. I have towed Jeeps with all kinds of vehicles and a full size truck still is my favorite. Why take chances, wrecking one vehicle is bad enough, two? ugh!
Related article: Trailering Safety and Trailer Hitch Information
Crazy Jeep engine conversions
Headers vs. Manifolds – Which is better?
Another one of those age old debates. Are headers better than manifolds or are manifolds better than headers. In the typical Jeeper type answer – it depends. Personally on a trail Jeep manifolds will get the job done and sometimes will be an advantage.
Manifolds: More restriction usually equals more low end torque. Torque is good on a trail Jeep that spends all day moving at 2mph. Manifolds also are less prone to exhaust leaks. I have spent a good amount of money on header gaskets, even gimmicky ones that still fail eventually. I guess crappy headers can’t help the situation, but fin
d a set of “good” headers for an AMC V8 in a CJ. Manifolds will pass the heat along downstream in the exhaust system reducing underhood temperature. The down side is
Headers: Less restriction allows for freer flow at higher rpm. Since most trail Jeeps never see rpm of any significance it seems that headers may not provide any benefit. On a Jeep racer or street warrior headers may make more sense.
The Jeep Wave
Most of us who have owned a Jeep have experienced the Jeep Wave. To some newbie Jeep owners it’s a source of confusion until either; you figure it out or someone explains it to you. It’s a fun following unique to only a few types of vehicles.
Around the internet there are many pages dedicated to defining who you should wave to and how you should wave. They are fun and entertaining. Some even have complex point scales obviously impossible to figure out within the time of a wave, but fun nonetheless.
My favorite is one I believe was written by Michael Meadows while attending Marshall University in WV. He describes variations in the wave and has a rating system that involves the type of Jeep, age, modifications, etc. See an exerpt “The Jeep Wave“
Personally I don’t initiate a wave with Jeeps that are not a CJ, YJ, TJ, JK but I will wave back if the other driver waves.
Rule to live by: If in doubt, just wave.
Lower Crawl Ratio – Transmission, Transfer Case, or Differentials?
the most costly. Changing differential gears is not for the garage/tool challenged. One may be able to install one of these kits for $600-$1000 depending on the transfer case and ratio option. Another plus to this is your highway ratio would be unaffected since the lower ratio only is effective in low range. The down side. If your highway gears are too high this won’t help and also, the new lower low range will add more effective torque output putting more strain on your driveshaft, differential, and axles. This low ratio t/c to high ratio diff may be too much of a difference and you may have trouble.
Differential Gears: This method will definitely cost more. Ring and pinion, rebuild kit, and labor may add up to $1000 per axle. The new ratio will change both your trail gears and highway gears. The change may be good for those tall tires you just fitted up. Changing diff gears relieves the stress on the transmission, transfer case, and driveshafts because the lower differential ratio allows the differential to be turned easier effectively moving the torque onto the axles.
transmission is only a good option if your current is either to badly geared or unable to handle your engine. In my case a 2.99:1 first gear had to go. Most transmissions are around 4:1 plus. Changing transmissions may require adapters, driveshaft resizing, and alterations to the floor for shifter levers.
Question: My Liberty makes a howling noise when turning.
Rrrrooooowwwwaawahh. I know that sound personally, it is usually a sound coming from the 
rear differential. Your Liberty probably has the off-road package and has a trak-lock in there. BTW the Liberty off-road package added a few skid plates namely under the front diff, transfer case skid, and gas tank skid. This package also included tow hooks (2 in the front and 1 in the rear.
The howling sound is the clutches rubbing on each other. A similar situation to turning with a locker. Usually the sound is more pronounced while backing and turning tightly. A good test to see if it’s the rear. Back up straight then turn and see if the noise happens when turning in reverse. Then try backing in a straight line and without stopping, shift the Liberty into neutral then turn while rolling backward. What this does is take the torque off the differential and the clutches in the trak-lock will release. If there is no sound you have found the source of the noise.
Personally, I have had a few Jeeps over the years and several with howling trak-locks, I usually ignored the noise and never had a problem, the noise does seem to get louder over age. Some suggestions; try changing the gear oil (make sure you use approved oil for the trak-lock) or have it looked at by someone qualified.
Keep wheeling those Libertys.
Liberty Products at jeepfan.com
Question: Jeep Production Numbers
I have been asked by a few for the Jeep production numbers over the years. After scouring the internet and consulting a few reliable sources here is what I can find. If you think I am wrong, as usual let me know.
802,086* – Wrangler TJ 1996-2006
632,231 – Wrangler YJ 1987-1995
27,792 – CJ-8
379,299 – CJ-7 1976-1986
603,303 – CJ-5 1954-1983
Those are some large numbers and it shows just how many TJ’s are out there. They should be readily available for years to come. The Wrangler Unlimited (LJ) was available 2003-2006. *The TJ was sold in 1996 as a 1997, also includes LJ. There is some dispute about the 2006 total, some sources say the number is for the calendar year not the model year which would include the JK. The information is trivial and just for fun anyway.
We have a large compiled list covering individual models per year spanning 1945-2006. See Jeep Production Numbers list.
Jeep Security – Keeping your stuff yours!
We all know the fun and freedom of a convertible vehicle, we also know the potential security problems with them also. Some of us have been the victim of theft from our Jeeps. I feel it beneficial to go over some common sense practices when leaving your Jeep somewhere. Realistically, if someone wants something bad enough in your Jeep (or heaven forbid, your Jeep itself) it’s difficult to stop a determinined criminal. Taking steps to prevent this Jeep tragedy from happening are sometimes our only means.
In general keep objects in your Jeep out of sight, a theif in this case is usually an opportunist looking for a quick grab and go. They usually aren’t going to take the time to look around. Don’t invite a problem by advertising something. Know where you are leaving your Jeep – an incident can happen anywhere (sometimes the best places make the best targets) but some places may be more prone to problems.
If your Jeep has a hard top, lock it up, keeping in mind the above.
If your Jeep has a soft top with lockable doors – lock it up, keeping in mind the above but remember a soft top is easily cut open.
If your Jeep has a soft top without lockable doors – Your top isn’t really doing anything for you except keeping things dry. At least the person interested in your stuff hopefully will not damage anything since they can just open the door.
No top – Anything inside is just a reach away – if it’s not there it can’t be taken!
Options to help redu
ce your risk. Tuffy Security Products manufactures a variety of high quality lockable items that you can add to your Jeep to help. Cargo drawers, center consoles, glove boxes, and underhood lockable storage are just some examples of what they offer.
We have identified and reviewed many of the Tuffy products on jeepfan.com.
Tuffy Security Products details and reviews at jeepfan.com
Tuffy Security Products company site
Carter BBD Carburetor Alternatives – Part 2
Recap: In the last few years of the CJ series and the first few years of the Wrangler YJ Jeep outfitted the 4.2L (258) 6 cylinders with an electronic carburetor referred to as the BBD. The Carter BBD is a two barrel carburetor that came in two variations, one is computer controlled and has a stepper motor on the back side. The computer controlled version was used after 1981. Both have similar problems and considering they haven’t been “new” in approximately 20 years alternatives are sometimes the best option to regain reliability and performance. Read more
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